Tuesday,
16th of March 2004
Sendai<->Yamadera
Day Three :
Yamadera Temple
Breakfast on the house
After going through the morning routines, I went downstairs to
have a free breakfast which consisted of miso soup, onigiri (rice
balls wrapped in seaweed) and tea. Most of the other people having
breakfast were salarymen. Then I checked my e-mail from the public
computer before quickly grabbing my shoulder bag from my room and
left the hotel.
Today my destination would be a mountain that is planted with
small temples, known as Yamadera (which means "Mountain Temple").
I went to the tourist information center again in order to get
information how to get to Yamadera.
Going by local train
Surprise, surprise, the natural way to get there was by local
train. It was an interesting ride to leave the city of Sendai and
gradually move deeper into quieter mountain landscapes. After a
hour ride which ended with a rather long tunnel section, I arrived
at Yamadera station.
The weather was clear and the village itself was very quiet in
a good way. Judging by the amount of tourist shops there certainly
must be a bigger buzz here during peak seasons. There wasn't any
tourist information center open, but a restaurant keeper near the
station gave maps of the mountain area to the few tourists that
came by the local train.
Walking up the mountain stairway
Soon I found myself at the root of the mountain and started climbing
up the stone stairs surrounded by a cedar forest. There is said
to be 1015 steps, but I didn't count as I stopped a few times to
look at many types of Buddha statues.
Gradually I made it to the Niou-man gate, which had two big demon
guardians carved from wood inside. After passing them, there were
several small temples and houses around the area, but the real
treat was the view of the mountain valley below. I can only imagine
how breathtaking it must look like during the summer when everything
is blooming green.
After taking several photos of the place, I headed back down,
passing many elder Japanese who seemed to enjoy the challenge of
climbing the thousand steps.
Returning to Sendai
While waiting for the local train that would take me back to Sendai,
I ate something that looked like mashed rice balls boiled in a
big pot. They were rather rubbery and the taste was rather mild
(I've been told later that they might have been dango rice
dumplings. I can't confirm was this the case of not).
Returning back to Sendai on the local train, I really started
to enjoy the easiness of these trains. It would be foolish to claim
trains aren't a characteristic part of Japan.
Back in Sendai, I faced the same problem as yesterday. I didn't
know where I should go as the tourist brochure of the city didn't
offer me anything I was truly interested in, so I ended up wandering
around the streets again.
Walking around Sendai
At one point I found myself walking in some kind of market street
selling vegetables, fruits and fish. I also visited the local Yodabashi
camera department store to see if there were any cheaper memory
sticks available, but no luck.
After the sun had set, I visited a department store (I think it
was named AER) that had a floor specially reserved for a good view
of the city. While the view was nice, I didn't hang around there
too long as it clearly was a popular spot for teenage couples trying
to have a private moment.
Later I entered a building called Sendai mediatheque, which architecturally
was quite original by its interior looks. And on the ground hall
there was as small exhibition of Finland! It basically was an introduction
to the education, technology and nature of the country. I don't
know why Finland was under the spotlight, but it was nice anyway.
Giving up
Back to Japan however. After leaving the mediatheque I returned
to the hotel and checked from the internet if the local live venue
(Zepp Sendai) had any show for tonight. There wasn't, so I decided
to go to sleep early again. Bummer.
Overall Sendai seemed like a Japanese city that had everything,
yet nothing interesting, so it left me a rather colourless image.
I think I just didn't know what I was supposed to be looking for.
Or maybe I just caught myself being lazy. Whatever the case, I'll
be moving further north tomorrow morning, leaving Sendai behind
me.
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day four!
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